Aleatico

Aleatico is a red grape with a perfume that suggests a white Muscat: rose petals, ripe berries and sweet spice rather than the dark, savoury weight of a Cabernet. Its best known home is the Tuscan island of Elba, where drying the harvested grapes concentrates that perfume into a small, intensely flavoured dessert wine.

The name of the grape does not, by itself, promise sweetness. Producers also make dry reds and rosés, so a bottle marked Aleatico needs a second look at its description. Passito identifies the dried-grape approach; on Elba that is the traditional expression to seek if you want a richly sweet finish to a meal.

Treat a sweet Aleatico as a small glass with a job to do. A berry tart, dark chocolate or a piece of firm, mature cheese gives its aromatic intensity something to meet. Chill it lightly rather than serving it warm, and remember that a half bottle can provide several modest dessert pours.