Piquepoul

Piquepoul is a southern French grape name with white, grey and dark-berried forms. The white form, Piquepoul blanc, is by far the most familiar to shoppers through Picpoul de Pinet in the Languedoc. That wine's reputation rests on a dry, lively freshness rather than on heavy texture or an elaborate oak treatment.

Spelling can obscure the connection: Picpoul is common on wine labels, while Piquepoul is the variety spelling used in many references. Neither word should make every bottle seem identical. The white grape also appears in blends elsewhere in southern France, and the rarer colour forms are separate expressions that should not be mistaken for the familiar Pinet white.

For the usual dry white, seafood is the obvious place to begin: oysters, mussels, grilled fish and lemon-dressed dishes all make sense. Its brisk acidity is more useful than a strong perfume would be with those flavours. Choose a fresh bottle, serve it cool and let it play a supporting role rather than asking it to dominate the meal.