Gaglioppo

Gaglioppo is the red grape most closely associated with Cirò in Calabria, on Italy's southern mainland. It provides an important counterexample to the idea that a sunny southern region must produce only very dark, soft reds. Its wines can have a relatively open colour while retaining a firm tannic outline and a distinctly savoury character.

Both red and rosé expressions belong to its local tradition. The pale appearance of a red should not be taken as a sign that it lacks structure, and prominent oak is not necessary to make the grape interesting. A producer's account of extraction and maturation can tell you more than judging the wine by its depth of colour.

Try a dry red with lamb, pork, a rich tomato sauce or a mature cheese, and allow a young bottle some air before the meal. A rosé can take a lighter role with fish or an informal spread. In either case, keep the serving temperature sensible: a warm room can make alcohol more noticeable and hide the wine's finer fruit.