Khikhvi

Khikhvi is a Georgian white grape especially associated with Kakheti. It is less internationally familiar than Rkatsiteli, but offers another route into the country's variety of white wines. Its fruit can be presented as a pale white or through the amber colour and grip that result from fermenting white grapes with their skins.

That production choice is the main thing to establish before opening a bottle. A directly pressed Khikhvi does not have the same texture as one kept with skins in a qvevri, even if both finish dry. The traditional vessel is part of the method, while the length and extent of contact explain much of the difference in structure.

Choose a pale white for lighter food, or let a more tannic amber version work with poultry, walnuts and substantial vegetable dishes. Give the latter a little air and avoid serving it at the coldest white-wine temperature. If you are discovering the grape, compare clearly described styles rather than assuming that every Georgian white follows the same recipe.