Croatina

Croatina is a red grape of northern Italy that frequently reaches the glass under the wine name Bonarda. In the Oltrepò Pavese, that name usually signals Croatina rather than the distinct Bonarda Piemontese variety. It is one of several cases where a familiar word on an Italian bottle is not a reliable guide to grape identity.

The wine can be still or lightly sparkling, and sweetness varies by producer and bottling. Its dark fruit and substantial colour should not make you assume a heavy, oak-driven red. The lively local styles are built for drinking with food, where a little fizz and a fresh finish can be more useful than sheer concentration.

Salami, pizza, meat-filled pasta and rich sauces are sensible first partners. Check whether the bottle is dry before putting it alongside the main course, and give a lightly sparkling version a modest chill. If you want a quiet, structured red instead, seek a still Croatina and read the producer's account of its extraction and maturation.