Erbaluce

Erbaluce is a white grape of northern Piedmont, particularly the area around Caluso in the Canavese. It is a useful alternative to thinking of Piedmont only through its red wines. Its marked freshness can support a dry white, a sparkling wine or a sweet passito, three different ways of putting the same underlying acidity to work.

The sweet style depends on concentrating the grapes, while a dry bottle relies on enough ripe fruit to balance the brisk outline. That is why sweetness cannot be inferred from the variety name alone. Caluso on the label is a useful geographical starting point, but the additional style description is what tells you how to serve the wine.

Choose a dry Erbaluce for fish, light vegetable dishes or an aperitif with food. Choose a passito for a smaller pour with a dessert or cheese, following the producer's sweetness description. If comparing the two, notice the shared freshness beneath the very different weight rather than expecting their aromas and textures to match exactly.