Aglianico

Aglianico is the leading red grape of southern Italy and the one most often compared to nebbiolo, for good reason: it ripens very late, well into November, and carries severe tannin and high acidity at the same time. It grows on volcanic soil in Campania and Basilicata, chiefly around Monte Vulture and in the hills behind Avellino.

The old story that Greek settlers brought it, and that the name derives from Hellenic, is now doubted. No Greek relative has been found, and the name is first recorded only in the fifteenth century. What is certain is that the variety is very old in the region and has no close relatives anywhere else.

The wine is deep, dark and slow. Black cherry, plum, tobacco, ash and iron, with tannin that needs years to settle and acidity that keeps it fresh while it does. Taurasi in Campania must age three years before release and can run for twenty five. Aglianico del Vulture, grown higher and on volcanic ash, is usually the more mineral and less oaked of the two, and it is often much cheaper.