Ribolla Gialla

Ribolla Gialla belongs to the border country of northeastern Italy and Slovenia, where the name Rebula also appears. Its fresh acidity can produce a lean, lively white, but the grape is equally important in the region's tradition of fermenting white grapes with their skins. One name can therefore lead to very different-looking glasses.

A pale, directly pressed Ribolla and a deeply amber skin-contact version should not be judged as though they were competing at the same task. The first tends to emphasise refreshment and restrained fruit; the second adds grip and a more substantial texture. Sparkling bottles introduce another route, using the same underlying freshness in a different form.

Decide on texture before buying. A young pale white works with seafood, light starters and vegetables, while an amber version needs more room beside roast poultry, richer dishes or firm cheese. Let a structured bottle warm slightly after pouring. Its tannin is a consequence of skin extraction, not evidence that Ribolla Gialla is a red grape.