Sauvignon vert

Sauvignon vert is better understood through its other names: Sauvignonasse and, in northeastern Italy, Friulano. It is not Sauvignon blanc, despite the resemblance in their names. The distinction matters to anyone expecting the sharp, grassy perfume of the latter and finding instead a fuller, quieter white with a characteristic savoury or almond-like finish.

The older name Tocai Friulano can still appear in discussions of the grape, although current Italian labels use Friulano. It should not be confused with Hungary's Tokaj wines either. Place names, historical names and variety names overlap here, which makes the complete label more reliable than a familiar fragment remembered from another bottle.

A dry Friulano is a useful food wine with prosciutto, vegetables, fish and dishes that benefit from a little texture without overwhelming perfume. Serve it cool rather than ice cold. If you are comparing it with Sauvignon blanc, make the comparison about their different textures and aromatic emphasis, not about whether one has failed to resemble the other.