Sagrantino

Sagrantino is the red grape at the centre of Montefalco in Umbria. Its dry wines are known for depth and unusually forceful tannin, making them a substantial step beyond a soft, fruit-led red. The grape is also used for a traditional sweet passito, so the same name can belong to wines intended for very different moments.

A young dry Sagrantino can feel severe without food or time to open. Maturation is an important part of its local wine tradition, but even an older bottle can retain a firm outline. Do not choose it simply because you want the darkest possible red: the tactile grip, more than the colour, is the feature to expect.

Bring the dry wine to a meal of braised meat, game, steak or a mature cheese, where its structure has something substantial to meet. Open it with time to spare and follow the producer's serving advice. For passito, plan smaller pours with a separate pairing; retained sweetness does not erase all of the grape's characteristic firmness.